Joel McNeely

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September 13, 2007

Recipe

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I had to write down a few recipes for my daughter's school cookbook. Easy right? Wrong. Hats off to the folks who can knock out a good cookbook with consistent, workable and most importantly, repeatable recipes. It's not easy. It's amazing how much of cooking is by eye and feel. Often when cooking with someone else and they ask me how much of an ingredient to put in, I reply 'enough'. Not trying to be snarky, it's a truthful answer. For certain things I use a measure (baking, always) but if following a recipe I always take measurements with a grain of kosher salt.

So here are my VERY approximate recipes. The first is incredibly good and easy. The second, which I mentioned in the last post is harder but rewarding. Bon Appetit!


Roasted Onion Spaghetti

This pasta dish is simple, light, super easy and incredibly flavorful. Also, really kid friendly.

4 large yellow or Maui onions
2 cloves garlic
Pecorino Romano cheese- grated
Olive oil
Crushed red pepper flakes salt and pepper
Salt and pepper
Finely Chopped Italian parsley.
1 lb spaghetti (De Cecco or Barrlla is best)

Preheat the oven to 375. Peel and quarter the onions and place in a baking dish with garlic cloves. Drizzle and toss with EV olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in oven until the onions are well caramelized and brown (not black.) Remove and let cool.

Transfer onions to food processor and blend. Add 1 tbl spn olive oil and enough Romano cheese to make the mixture semi-solid (not too liquidy) I do this by eye but it is usually 3/4 to 1 cup of cheese. Add a sprinkle of chili flakes and re-blend. This can be done ahead of time and left at room temperature.

Boil pasta water in a large pot. When it is boiling add two handfuls of kosher salt and taste the water. It should taste like the sea. If not, add more salt. Boil pasta until al dente. Before straining the pasta retain a cup or so of pasta water. Strain pasta and return to pot. Stir in the onion puree and adjust consistency by adding pasta water in small amounts until it is creamy. Drizzle with olive oil, add a handful more Romano and serve. Garnish with shredded basil or chopped flat leaf parsley.

Basil Crusted Salmon with Saffron Beurre Blanc, Parsnip Mash and Tomato Coulis

This takes some prep but it is really delicious and a very elegant presentation.

2 lb.s center cut salmon filet, skin off
1 cup basil
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
2 large parsnips
1 cup milk
3 tbl spns Italian parsley
1 tbl spn canola oil
Lemon juice
2 medium tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
2 tbl spns Olive oil
1.5 cups low salt chicken stock (Trader Joes is best for low salt content and good flavor)
Pinch of saffron
1/2 cup fish stock (Knorr is fine)
6 tablespoons of unsalted butter

I like to butcher my salmon into 2 to 2 1/2 “ very thick rounds for this dish but it isn’t essential.

For the tomato coulis, slice garlic and put it in a small saucepan in the olive oil. Bring up heat to med. low for one minute. Quarter and seed tomatoes and add to garlic. Add 1/2 cup chicken stock and raise heat to med. Let simmer for 30-40 minutes until it is thickened and reduced. Let cool and then puree in a food processor. Strain mixture into a bowl and reserve. This can be made well ahead and stored.

For crust, add basil, parlsey and a splash of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice to food processor and blend until chopped. Set aside. This can also be made in advance.

For parsnip mash, peel and chop into one inch pieces. Boil water in a large pot and salt heavily. Boil the parsnips until tender, strain and cool. Put parsnips through a ricer, or use a masher. Add to pot. Heat on high while stirring for a minute to remove some of the moisture. Gradually add butter and milk over med heat. Season to taste. Can be refrigerated until needed.

In a small sauce pan add one tablespoon of water over high heat. When it bubbles whisk in 4 tbl spns butter, one tablespoon at a time and reduce heat to low. Whisk until the butter emulsifies slightly and remove from heat. Keep in a warm place.

Put mash in a pot and heat over med low. Add more milk if too dry.

Preheat oven to 350. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for one minute. Season salmon on both sides with salt and pepper. Add canola oil to pan and place salmon in pan. Press gently to ensure the flesh is making even contact with the heat. Sauté for one minute without disturbing to get a good crust. Turn and sauté for one more minute or until brown. Remove and place salmon in a baking dish. When it has cooled slightly, spoon basil puree over the fish and then dust with panko bread crumbs. Place in oven for 7-8 minutes.

Heat the sauté pan that the salmon was cooked in until very hot. Deglaze with one cup chicken stock and the fish stock. Whisk pan bottom to scrape up all the brown bits and reduce. When the stock has reduced by half, strain and add to a small pot. Season with salt, pepper and saffron. Whish in the butter mixture slowly over low heat and continue to reduce until it is thickened and glossy.

Place a small amount of mash in the center of a plate. Add the butter/saffron sauce around the mash. Place the salmon on top of the mash. Using a squeeze bottle or drips from a spoon dot the butter sauce with the tomato coulis. Garnish the salmon with a chive tip.

August 7, 2007

Winging it

I have a deadline. A serious deadline. And my equipment has decided to go to the moon, en masse. We aren't talking about one computer here. We're talking about something like ten. All with strange behaviors, none of which is relatable to any one symptom.

Sooooo, while waiting for my tech who is AWOL because a certain rock-star had a fire in his studio (he's on a giant tour so I don't know why he needs his studio before I do), I'll riff about a dinner I made last weekend.

Really good friends were coming over so I wanted to do it up. 'Cept, I had no motivation and was tired. A request for salmon came in. Good, I can do that without much thought. There was tarragon in the garden so I figured I would base everything off that. But then, a load of basil came home from the market and I decided to change directions about 3 hours before guests came with no prep done. It was time for jazz. By jazz I mean improv. Now I was starting to get into it. I raced down to the fish guy and bought a center cut of Scottish salmon that was gorgeous.

Here is the gist of what went down:

I had some Costco frozen fresh shrimp so I made s ravioli filling with shrimp, walnuts, basil and mascarpone cheese. Into the fridge. I found some parsnips in the fridge and made a puree/mash out of them. Chives are overtaking the garden so I made some chive oil. Then I butchered the salmon, took the skin off and cut it into beautiful rounds. Into the fridge. I made a puree of basil, garlic, parsley, OO and yes, into the fridge. Then I defrosted fish fumet stock that I had made a while back. Just when I was about to make a little pasta for the ravioli, I found some wonton wrappers and took out the shrimp and made little raviolis with those. Back into the fridge.

When it came time to fire everything up, I dropped the raviolis into some peanut oil and fried. Then I took the salmon, sauteed it lightly and then let it cool. I took the basil mixture and coated one side and topped it off with panko breadcrumbs. Into a 350 oven. 6 minutes.

I made a simple roux and popped the stock in with a pinch of saffron. Reduced and added a teeny touch of emulsified butter at the end. I blanched a few haricots vert, plated the parsnip mash with salmon on top. Added the saffron sauce with a drizzle of chive oil and garnished with the raviolis and fresh chives. From start to table, about one hour prep and a half hour execution.

My point is this, cooking with what's around can be a really creative thing. Yup, a well-stocked pantry is key. I began not being up for it, but when I heard the ingredients start to sing, I had a great time.

July 17, 2007

Essence and Pretense

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Poor neglected food blog. I've been really busy with a film, concerts and recordings and haven't had time to cook, much less blog about it. But the nice thing about traveling is that I've collected some great culinary experiences.

Lyon, France is supposedly the gastronomic capital of Europe, if not the world. (So they say, whoever they is.) And yes, there are a lot of restaurants. Paul Bocuse, the legendary chef is from Lyon and has four restaurants there. So on my first night there I happened on one of his spots, which was right around the corner from my hotel. Café Le Sud. Traditional southern French cooking. It was very good with one extraordinary dish. Something as common as a salad with tomatoes, basil, feta and olive oil is a summer staple. I make it two or three times a week in the summer around here. Except that on this night, it was as if I were having it for the first time. I don’t think I've had tomatoes with such explosive and yet refined flavor, and feta that tasted as if it had just been made. But the real kicker was the olive oil. I kept looking around for ground up olives in the salad because it had a flavor exceptionally redolent of olives. And then I realized it was the oil. And I also realized that most olive oil is shit! I was tasting real olive oil for the first time. Incredible. With a little reading I learned that OO is best the moment it's been pressed. It's downhill from that moment. It doesn't like light and it doesn't age well. So the best OO is the freshest. This must've been really fresh. At any rate, this simple salad was the best thing I had in all my travels of France.

Now for the worst. I figured that I had been eating in brasseries, cafes and mid-level restaurants my whole trip. I should go for one meal in a really top Michelin-rated joint. And so, Nicolas Le Bec, with 2 shiny Michelin stars. The space was modern and inviting with an air of money. The staff was super snooty. All okay if they could really throw down on the food level. I ordered white asparagus and foie gras. No brainer. It came, presented in a checkerboard design, which must've taken the garde manger guy an eon to erect. And all this beautiful foie and asparagus, drowning in what tasted like vinaigrette out of a bottle. I swear it was a crime against foie. Shameful.

So, then came the duck, which my colleague's wife had also. After 10 minutes of the table shaking furiously as we tried to cut even a bite of the fibrous, rubber fowl, I gave up. There was nothing remotely edible on this bird. Just tough stringy fatty meat. And it was drown in a gooey, sweet sauce that even if getting a bite were possible, tasting it beyond the sauce wouldn't have been. I wanted to flee. And then the bill. Lets just say that lunch was more expensive than dinner at Per Se in NY, the best meal I've ever had or ever expect to have. Thomas Keller, you have nothing to worry about. In the end I decided that this place was all pretension and no substance. If the facade is impressive enough, I guess people will buy anything. The Emperor's new reduction. Sheesh. Give me a simple tomato salad any day.

Oh and one more thing: in France they call the conductor of the orchestra, Chef! It even said Chef Joel McNeely on my dressing room. So for a few days, I could actually claim to be a real chef!


May 19, 2007

Science Class

I ran into someone who is actually reading this nonsense the other day! Wow, that's weird. I thought it was just my own form of therapy as I try to avoid the things I'm supposed to be doing.

You know what? I generally favor an open-minded approach to just about everything. Not cooking. There are right and wrong ways of doing things in the kitchen and how you do things almost always effects the final outcome. I have this battle constantly with my wife, who thinks I am nuts.

I finally realized this when I read Harold McGee. Harold wrote a bible of cooking called 'On Food & Cooking'. It's all about the science of cooking. He also has a fantastic blog, which this week tests out the '5 second rule' that kids have about eating stuff off the floor. Fascinating and hilarious. Oh and, don't eat stuff off the floor. Ever. Blaaaah.

Anyway, once I started to wonder why things came out differently each time I'd make them, I started to pay attention to the science of it. How does heat transfer, at what rate and for how long? All these questions are crucial to success. For example, I got yelled at this morning because I was taking forever making my son's scrambled eggs. But, if you whisk the crap out of them (10 minutes, until your arm hurts) they get all infused with lots of good oxygen, which makes them fluffy and ethereal. And then if you cook them over a very low flame, slowly, slowly, they will get a sheen and texture that is otherworldly. Now, what is the difference between these eggs and the kind of sheet-rock spackle that you get in a buffet at the Red Lobster brunch? The world. And my son won't eat any eggs any other way now. Wait until he gets to college. Hah!

Almost everything benefits from understanding what is going on in your process. Why does homemade pasta dough have to be kneaded for so long? It changes the flour structure to bring out the gluten. Why does brining meat not make it salty? Wow, this is a crazy one – because the salt actually changes the structure of the protein of the meat, allowing it to hold moisture. Why do caramelized onions taste sweet? The slow cooking of onions brings out the natural sugar. Why should one never boil stock when it's reducing? It brings out all of the impurities, shakes them up and makes your stock cloudy rather than something so clear that you can see a dime in the bottom of the pot. An on and on.

Of course, all rules are meant to be broken. But as with writing music, it helps so much to know that you are breaking a rule and why you are breaking it.

Check out McGee.

http://news.curiouscook.com/

May 11, 2007

Jealous

My friend Roland is going to El Bulli next month. I am jealous. What is widely regarded as the world's greatest restaurant sits in a small village in Spain. It is owned and chefed by Ferran Adria, who is maybe the most innovative chef ever. I am NOT a fan of super-clever fancy pants food. I do not want to eat tuna cotton candy. I do not want to eat foams of all sorts and strange emulsions of this, which looks like that, and tastes like something altogether different. This is precisely what Chef Adria does. EXCEPT, that absolutely everyone that I know and respect in the food world says that the guy deconstructs everything you think a meal is and completely disarms you with his prodigious creativity. Strangely, this seems to be it's own kind of soul food. Now we're talking. Anything THAT creative, and I'm in. Bourdain did a great hour show about El Bulli and showcased the super-secret lab in Barcelona where chefs, chemists and an industrial designer all work to blow your mind. The place is only open 6 months out of the year, and you have to reserve a full year in advance (if you can get in.) And finally this mind blowing stat: the restaurant holds only 50 people, and there are 50 chefs. Holy cow. Roland, please take me with you?????

http://www.elbulli.com/

April 21, 2007

Spring

Spring is here in California. That means wonderful things growing that we only get once a year. If you have a farmer's market near you, GO. This is the best way to buy fresh food, things that are seasonal, grown close by and usually not messed up with nasty chemicals. My bliss at the moment is pea shoots and English peas. Yup, it's a lot of work shucking the damn things but damn, it's worth it. The pea shoots (the green from the top of the pea plant) are amazing, flash sautéed in a little EVOO (no I'm not a Rachel Ray drone, can't stand her), shallots and a squeeze of lemon. Perfection.

And last week I was brave enough to buy fresh Fava beans. Okay, those things are A LOT of work. First the pods have to come off and then there is another shell around the thing. Sure you can boil them to get off the second shell, but then all the color goes away when you cook them. And why eat favas if you aren't going to get that incredibly unique green color? Lastly, chives. I've got abundant chives in my garden. More than I could ever use. So I cut a bunch, ran them under hot water to remove some of the chlorophyll and then soaked them in a little canola oil for a day or two. Then pass it through cheesecloth for several hours to drain out the oil. You get bright green flavorful oil that is perfect for garnishing. Okay that's it. C'mon, GO to the farmers market!


April 13, 2007

Stock

Well hey, I'm not sure anyone's even looking at this food blog. But so what, it's tension releasing to yack on about my second favorite subject.

Okay, today: STOCK! The single most important thing to cooking well, (okay one of them) is making your own stock. It will make a world of difference in everything you make. Commercial stock is horrible and has enough salt in it to cause instant hypertension. I usually have a stock making day or two every month. It can be a very calming thing to make. Skim, skim, skim. I always keep brown veal stock on hand. I use lots of bone (10 lbs.) and cook it for at least 12 hours. I won't go into recipes here because you can get lots of good stock ideas online. But heed this: NEVER boil your stock. It will make a cloudy mess out of it. Keep it at around 190 degrees. I also take some of the finished veal stock, add a little red wine, some additional aromatics and reduce it down to a demi-glace. Then into ice trays and the freezer it goes and stored in Ziploc bags. These cubes are little flavor jacks for instant quick sauces.

I also make a dark chicken stock as well. This is the workhorse of stocks. I use it in everything. When beef stock is called for I usually substitute ½ veal and ½ dark chicken. It's lighter but still flavorful.

Finally, ask your fish guy for lobster bones he has kicking around. He'll give them to you for free. Hack them up, add a little tomato paste and roast them until they are nice and browned. Then make a stock as you would the chicken stock. You won't believe how amazing this is. If you take about a cup of the finished stock and reduce it down to a few tablespoons and whisk in a little butter it becomes a glace that will blow your mind. Put it under a seared scallop and your family will think you're a genius.

All these stocks can keep in the freezer for a few months. I usually put some in ½ quart containers and freeze some in ice trays. That way if you only need a little you don't have to thaw a big batch.

Bon Appetit!

March 22, 2007

A fun meal

A few weeks ago I cooked a meal with my buddy Brian Dembow, who is a fantastic violist and cook. The dinner was to raise money for the Recording Musicians Association. We had a blast and worked like a well-oiled machine. Here's what was on...

Starter
Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras
White truffle toasts, caramelized pear
Port balsamic demi-glace
Le Mont Vouvray, Demi-sec 2005

Soup
Puree of Fresh Fennel Soup,
Meyer Lemon Oil, Saffron Tuile
Johann Donabaum Riesling, Bergterrassen Federspiel 2005.

Surf
Lobster filled chive crepe
Ginger carrot emulsion, Pea Shoots
Henri Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet 2004

Turf
Beef Tenderloin, porcini, rosemary rub
Pinot Noir demi-glace, Black truffle and mushroom ragout
Yukon gold mash
Sautéed swiss chard
Saint-Joseph, Vielles Vignes 2001

Cheese
Brillat Savarin (French triple-cream, cow's milk)
Fourme d'Ambert (French bleu, raw cow's milk--illegal!)
Abbaye de Bel'la (Basque sheep's milk)
Chabichou du Poitou (French goat's milk)
Clos des Bouffants, Sancere 2004

March 21, 2007

Chefs

Yes Greta, Anthony Bourdain is dead right about Keller. He's just kind of from another planet. I went to his Per Se in NY and had the best meal I've ever had. It took 5 hours and went by in a flash. Got to see the kitchen where they have a huge plasma monitor showing the kitchen at The French Laundry in Napa linked by satellite. Don't make any Keller recipes thinking they will be easy though. He cuts NO corners. Everything is made from scratch in a way to yield the best quality, which almost always takes time.

I love Bourdain by the way. His Les Halles cookbook is hilarious. His TV show is starting to get on my nerves though. The LA show was all about roller derby and the SWAT team. Its not like LA doesn't have great places to eat. I thought it was a food show.

March 20, 2007

Lobster/Chive Crepe

Jim asked for this recipe. It's from the French Laundry cookbook so I shouldn't reprint it. It's fairly tricky to make, but incredible. Thomas Keller, (French Laundry, Per Se, Bouchon) is a grand master in my view. He redefines excellence in everything he cooks. He's the greatest master craftsman there is cooking today in my book.